PLEASE NOTE that the rifle used for these images is a deactivated one, so some of the pictures will show little differences (absence of firing pin and soldered firin pin hole in the bolt head).

We'll begin with an unstripped, unloaded CETME assault rifle.

As a first step, we need to remove the magazine. A forward press on the magazine catch will release it.

The magazine catch is designed for ambidextrous usage, but you can also use the release button located on the right side.

Then, we'll remove the magazine pulling it downwards.

The next step will be to make sure the fire selector is either in "T" - Single Shot - or "R" - Burst - (i.e., any position but "S" - Safe). If the fire selector is in the "S" position, the cocking handle will not work.

The fire selector prevents the hammer to recede, adding an extra level of safety.

Oh, and as a language bonus, "T" stands for "Tiro a Tiro" (shot by shot) and "R" stands for "Rafaga (burst).

Now, we'll pull firmly the cocking handle rearwards. This will mount the hammer...

This will force backwards the lock, mounting the hammer; a little resistance is to be expected, as you`re fighting back both the recoil and hammer springs.

... , so we'll leave the cocking handle in its lock notch. Now the locking handle spring is under tension.

Don't we forget anything?

Nah, now is the moment to check the chamber and make sure there isn't a forgotten cartridge waiting for an accident to happen!.

Then, check it again. There's no record of a D.A. caused by one superfluous precaution, and lotsa them for lack of one.

Once sure, we'll release the cocking handle to relieve the tension on the spring.

The buttstock assembly is kept in place by means of a couple of pins. Those pins are to be removed.

Although Army instructors openly advice a little help from the magazine lips, we don't expect you to be so gullible. The magazine lips are probably the the most stressed and more fragile part of your rifle, and should be treated with the respect and care they deserve.

Yes, both of them!

And put on the appropriate holes in the buttstock, so we don't lose them.

This shows how a little forethinkink by the design guys can save a lot of problems.

Now, a gentle pull will release the buttstock assembly.

We'll let the fire assembly tilt downwards...

... and a little upwards twist will allow the bolt assembly to slide down ...

... and clear the barrel assembly.

The bolt head is not receded. As it should be to allow rotation, we press the head until it recedes...

The bolt head can't rotate if it's not receded.

... with an audible click, and the locking rollers protruding from its sides.

The locking roller protrude forced by the angled planes on the face of the firing pin carrier.

Now, we'll rotate the bolt head counterclockwise 180°. This can be a little tricky, so we could use the sling to help.

You can see that the firing pin hole has been soldered.

Once rotated, we'll extract the bolt head...

... by gently pulling it ...

... thus exposing the firing pin carrier.

And there, the firing pin should be showing in its carrier.

Now, we'll rotate 90° counterclockwise the firing pin carrier...

... we pull it ...

... and extract it...

Now, we'll pull out the firing pin (not pictured) and the firing pin spring.

To remove the fire assembly, we'll pull the pin located in front of the trigger guard...

While the designers took care to provide a coupla holes in the buttstock to hold the buttstock pins, they forgot to do the same for the fire assembly pin. So be careful not to lose it.

... so the fire assembly gets free from the barrel assembly....

... and the fire assembly can be freely removed.

Now you have a fully stripped CETME in your hands. Almost any other disassembling should only be attempted by a qualified gunsmith.